You’ve finally decided to give bass a try, probably because you want to jam with a band, or maybe you just can’t help but love those killer bass lines that make every song sound so much better. And you know what? You are not alone.
When Fender gave away its learning app during the 2020 Covid-19 lockdowns, over a million people signed up to learn guitar, bass, or ukulele. Ever since then, bass players have been steadily growing as a community. The bass guitar market is now a whopping $550 million annually, with the lion’s share coming from beginners just like you looking for their first instrument.
Now comes the fun part: and, it’s buying your first bass without blowing a small fortune or ending up with a thing that makes learning a real challenge.
How Much Money Should You Actually Spend on Your First Bass Guitar?
For most beginners, the sweet spot is around $200 to $400.
Spend less than $200 and you are taking a real risk . Any super cheap basses often have sharp fret edges that’ll leave your fingers sore. The necks might not or just won’t stay straight. And also, some of their electronics might just buzz and cut in and out on you. You’ll probably spend more time getting frustrated than actually playing and learning the bass.
On the otherhand, if you spend over $500 you could be basically throwing some of your money away on all sorts of fancy things that you don’t even know you want or you don’t know how to appreciate, yet. These can be things like the bass being made out of a high-end wood, have super expensive electronic pickups, or hardware upgrades that may only useful for some of the pro bass players.
A $300 bass from a reputable brand will see you through your first two years without holding you back in any way. And, a $400 bass can be pretty nice! Save the upgrade money for when you know what you really want, later after you’ve learned a bit.
The Budget Breakdown
Under $150 – This is a total gamble and a real crapshoot. I’ve had student parents pay me to work on their kid’s bass guitar. Sure, I made some money. But, the problems were always there for the student to deal with and they returned quickly.
You could be, and likely will be, fighting with playability issues that’ll slow down your progress and might just make you frustrated and even putting you off of bass altogether.
$200 – $400 – This is the sweet spot for beginner bass guitars. You can get a reliable instruments from some famous brands like Squier, Ibanez, Yamaha, and Sterling by Music Man. They have models that are all well within this price range, and they sound good and play well, too.
$400 – $600 – This is where things get more serious. You’ll find better hardware, more consistent quality control, and instruments that’ll not only keep up with your practice sessions but actually let you gig with them too.
$600 and up – Save this for when you actually know what you want, and you’ve got a good idea of what already works for you.
4-String vs. 5-String: Which Bass Guitar Should Beginners Choose?
Start off with a 4-string and here’s why:
First off, most people play 4-string basses and they can cover 99% of the music you’ll want to learn in your first few years. This includes rock songs, pop, funk, country, blues, R&B. If you can name it, then most of it was written for a 4-string bass guitar.
Now, a 5-string has an extra low B string that extends your range downward. And yeah, that can be useful for some modern metal, some modern worship, and a little contemporary gospel. But for beginners, it’s a just whole lot easier to deal with a 4-string that can play 95% or more of music.
Here’s why we reckon that you should start with a 4-string:
Your neck is going to be narrower. This will make it easier to play, in general. It will also be easier on smaller hands. Some bass players say that these “play fast” or “it’s a fast neck.” Those are the general consensus phrases.
String spacing is so simpler, which means you can develop your technique without having to worry about a bunch of other things. These 4 strings also happen to be the same as the lower sounding 4 strings on guitar, except for 1 octave lower. This makes the transition between the 6 string guitar and 4 string bass very doable for progressing musicians.
Also, your hand, and your back, will thank you for the lighter weight, especially after long practice sessions.
Ninety percent of the bass lines you’ll want to learn were written for a 4-string.
And here’s when a 5-string bass might be a better choice:
You’re learning a particular metal or modern worship song specifically.
You’ve got very big hands and very agile hands and the wider neck feels more natural to you in particular.
You’re already playing with a band that uses the low B string.
You’ve tried both the 4 string and the 5 string and the 5 string bass feels right to you.
If you’re not sure, then the decision is easy. It’s not even really a question. Just start with a 4-string and you can always add on a 5th string bass later on. This is what many 5 string bass players have done in the past. But, you can also get along well without ever playing a 5 string bass guitar.
Short-Scale vs. Long-Scale: Finding the Right Fit
Scale length is the distance from the nut to the bridge. And, this matters. It affects how your bass and bass strings feel. How the bass sounds and plays.
The long scale is the standard. Most bass lines that you’ve ever heard in your entire life were played on a 34″ bass. And that’s because Fender made it the norm back in the 1950s and it just works. It gives you that deep, clear, punchy tone that’s what this instrument is all about.
Short scale, on the other hand, puts the frets closer together. This makes it easier on your fingers. The strings also feel looser at the same tuning, which means there’s less pressure. The trade-off is that it sounds a bit warmer and less defined. Although to be honest, modern short-scale basses have pretty much closed the gap on this fact. There are some really famous short scale bass players.
Here’s a quick, short list of some really famous short scale bass players to show that it is a viable option for you:
Paul McCartney: The Beatles/Solo (Höfner 500/1 “Violin Bass”).
Jack Bruce: Cream (Gibson EB-3, later other short-scales).
Bill Wyman: The Rolling Stones (Fender Mustang).
Tina Weymouth: Talking Heads/Tom Tom Club (Fender Mustang).
Sheryl Crow: Sheryl Crow (G&L Short Scale Fallout, Gretsch Short Scale).
Choose a short scale if:
You’re coming from a guitar and long scale feels like its too much to handle.
You’ve got smaller hands or shorter arms.
You’re getting hand fatigue with the long scale bass instruments.
You’re a younger player with growing arms and hands.
You just plain prefer the feel of short scale.
Choose a long scale if:
The standard feel does not bother you in the least.
You want that classic bass tone without any compromise.
You’re of average height or taller and your hands are proportionate to the rest of your arms and body.
If you’re planning to play styles that need a super-deep, well-defined low end then you’re into the funk, slap, or modern rock space. And, this is going to be a big part of the sound that you’re after.
The lowdown is this: go to a store, hold both of them in your hands and get a feel for which one sits better on you. Sit down, strap one on. Reach for that first fret and then all the way to the twelfth. If the long-scale feels super natural then that’s your bass.
Also, stand up and just stand there. Imagine you’re up there for a couple of hours. Will your back hurt from the weight of it? If it’s straining at all, in reach or weight, then you might want to think about a short-scale bass because you want to make your practice and playing a little more sustainable. It honestly doesn’t really matter what else you do if the instrument just plain doesn’t fit your body.
New vs Used: Why New Basses Are Still Often the Winner for Beginners
You might figure that buying a used bass is the best way that you could save some cash for a first bass guitar. However, for most people, this is not a smart or good idea because you could often be buying or purchasing someone else’s problems.
These days computers & machinery can cut frets, shape necks, & route bodies with a level of precision and accuracy that was not even possible fifteen years ago. This can alleviate a lot of problems and issues that other people have to address.
A $300 bass made today has got way more consistency & playability than a $500 bass from back in 2008 could have.
Buying used basses also comes with some risks that beginners often cannot spot. Problems may exist like twisted necks, worn-out frets, corroded electronics, cracked neck joints hidden under the paint or finish, or truss rods that are already maxed out and the instrument cannot be adjusted further.
Some of these problems are just annoying, while others are completely unfixable. Most new players don’t have any experience to catch these red flags before buying a used bass. And, to go further, there are other problems in the industry, including but not limited to counterfeiting and counterfeit production.
Unless some super-experienced player is helping you check out a used instrument, buy new. You get a warranty, predictable quality, and just one less problem to deal with while you’re just learning.
Try Before You Buy
If you can swing it, try to visit a nearby, reputable music store even if you’re totally planning to buy online. But, in general, I will mostly buy a bass guitar, or even a guitar, in person.
You don’t even need to know how to play just yet. Just hold a few different basses in your hands, sit down with ’em, & pay attention to how the neck feels in your hand. Is it too thick? Too thin? Does the body balance out okay, or does the headstock just dribble down and point right to the floor when you let go? Can you reach that first fret without straining your shoulder?
Spend 15 minutes playing around with a couple of different instruments. Your hands will tell you things that no instrument specification (spec) sheet ever can. You might discover that the one you researched online just doesn’t feel right in person, but something you didn’t even notice before just feels like you want to take it home.
Trust your body. If something feels all wrong in the store, then it’s not likely to magically start feeling better after six months of practice.
The Only Accessories You Actually Need Right Now
Don’t let some salesperson talk you into buying a whole bunch of extra gear. Here’s what matters on day one:
- A practice amp ($50-150)
This is one thing that’s a total must and not negotiable for electric bass because it makes almost no sound unplugged. You need an amplifier (amp) to hear yourself properly & to start to develop a good tone in the first place. A small 15-25 watt combo amp is basically all you’ll ever need for bedroom practice. You’re not going to be performing in a rock stadium, yet.
Some solid choices:
Fender Rumble 25 – Fender has a tone that’s well known for being clean. It’s lightweight & reliable. This is just the default recommended choice for a good reason.
Orange Crush Bass 25 – a warmer sound with that distinctive Orange character. Great for rock tones.
Ampeg BA-108v2 – Ampeg is a classic bass amp with that Ampeg growl. Here it is in a tiny, affordable package.
- A cable ($10-20)
You need a cable to connect your bass to your amp. Don’t go for the cheapest thing out there. A crappy $5 cable will just give you a bunch of crappy problems at the worst moment. A basic cable from Fender, Ernie Ball, or Hosa that’s in the $10-20 range will keep on working for years to come.
- A Strap ($15-30)
Bass guitars are heavy, so a strap is a total must. It lets you practice standing up (which you’ll need for band situations down the line) & takes the weight off your fretting hand when you’re sitting down. Look for one with some decent padding, if you want, & at least about 2″ wide, and Levy’s, Fender, & Ernie Ball all make good, affordable, and cool-looking straps. - A Tuner ($15-30 or free app)
You can’t develop good ears on an out of tune instrument. The first thing you should do when you sit down, or stand up, to practice of play is to tune up. Clip-on tuners like the Snark SN-5 or TC Electronic UniTune work a charm & just stick onto your headstock. Or, you can just use a free app like Fender Tune or GuitarTuna which is just fine for practicing at home.
Stuff You Don’t Need Yet
Extra strings (your bass comes with some strings. You can replace them in 3-6 months)
Effects pedals (just learn your clean tone first)
A gig bag (you’re not traveling yet) – unless, you’re going to lessons. If you’re going to bass lessons, then get a gig bag or a hard case.
Multiple cables (one is good enough to start)
Expensive headphones (your amp’s speaker is fine for now)
Some Brands Worth Your Money
Not all budget basses are created equal. These brands consistently deliver on quality at beginner price points:
Entry Level ($150-300)
Squier Affinity Jazz Bass – Fender genetics at a fraction of the cost. The Jazz Bass shape is super comfortable, the tone is versatile, and Squier’s got its quality under control these days.
Ibanez GSR200 – a slim, fast neck that’s easy on smaller hands. It’s lightweight so you won’t wear yourself out during long practice sessions. Popular with rock & metal beginners.
Yamaha TRBX174 – That Yamaha reputation for quality, at a price even beginners can afford. Simple, dependable, and sounds like you’d expect to pay way more for.
Serious Beginner ($300-500)
Squier Classic Vibe Series – You step up from Affinity and into a much better world, with pickups that actually grab the sound you’re after, decent hardware, and all the nostalgic details you want. People rave about how much better it is compared to a whole lot pricier options.
Sterling by Music Man SUB Ray4 – That unmistakable Music Man sound, at a price that won’t break the bank. One pickup, one sound, but not a bad sound by any stretch.
Ibanez SR300E – With active electronics, you get a whole lot more options when it comes to tone. A more modern look, an easy-on-the-hands slim neck and it’s super lightweight. This is one model that intermediate Ibanez players swear by.
Yamaha TRBX304 – Switch between active and passive, enjoy that solid Yamaha build and the good news is it sounds a heck of a lot better than it costs. Yamaha’s always seem to sound good to me.
Short-Scale Options
Squier Bronco Bass – Easy to lug around, it’s simple, lightweight, and for smaller players, just gets the job done.
Ibanez GSRM20 Mikro – Even shorter at just 28.6″ scale. Designed for younger players but quite a few grown-ups also swear it’s the perfect choice for when they need something super portable.
Gretsch G2220 Junior Jet II – Short scale with some nice vintage style mixed in and to my surprise, really good tones. One up from the Bronco at a slightly higher price point.
Your First Bass Guitar Checklist
Before you go buy one, make sure you:
✓ have a budget for the bass that’s around $200-400-ish
✓ 4 strings should do it unless you’ve got a great reason to go 5 string
✓ try before you buy. See if the scale length feels right for you.
✓ get something new from a reputable brand. There’s safety in numbers!
✓ try to budget an extra $100-150 for amp, cable, strap, and a tuner. This is just part of your setup.
In Conclusion
Your first bass needs to be something that feels right in your hands but not the most expensive thing that you’ve ever bought. Make sure it stays in tune and sounds good enough so that you can start to figure out what good sounds like.
That’s it for the first bass. Get something from Squier, Ibanez, Yamaha, or Sterling. Buying these brands should give you a good enough sound, stay in tune, and not get in your way as you’re learning. During your second time around, you can start being picky about all the details. What kind of woods do I prefer or want? Which pickups? And, on and on it goes once you go down that rabbit hole.
Pick one of these brands, jam into a practice amp, and start getting to know some real bass lines. The rest is just getting deep sounding into the details.
